Taping
the HGU-84/P helmet can be very easy. Plan your pattern out ahead
of beginning- this will save a lot of trouble. All you need to tape
a helmet is some reflective tape and a new razor blade. I use my
fingernails a lot to create creases in the tape too.
Remove all hardware
from the helmet- in this case I left the NVG/Sight bracket on
the front (as the Navy does) and I also left the integrated chin/nape
assembly on.
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This
is how I typically begin a flight helmet tape job. A nice long single
strip from the very front forehead area to the back nape area- dead
center in the shell. If you read the
article on taping the 68/P, you will understand that this
creates "mirror images" on each side. This is very
important. Make sure this first strip is perfectly vertical. Note
the overlap needing to be cut at the nape edgeroll. |
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The
center was easy to find at the forehead area because of the NVG
mount. Prior to taping a helmet, run your fingers over it feeling
for any rough or raised area- if anything is noticed- remove with
fine grit sandpaper. The length of each strip is figured by first
placing it on the helmet with the backing on. I ALWAYS add
some length for error from the MINIMUM amount needed (perhaps
1 finger width each side). |
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Copying
what I have seen on HGU-84/Ps that I have gotten from pilots- I
make a "V" pattern around the NVG mount at the front of
the shell. In this photo, I have trimmed the error length at the
edgeroll and have creased the overlap meeting the main strip, yet
to be trimmed. |
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The
mirror leg of the "V" has been applied at this point.
Both pieces are trimmed at the edgeroll and the desired overlap
has been trimmed as well. Typically I use an overlap of 1/16th to
1/8th inch. It is very difficult to do a "flush" finish
where the tape is butted and trimmed to fit without overlap- this
typically will result in gaps between the tape and will not look
as nice. |
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There
were several options at this point- I could have continued doing
the "V" legs with them meeting the main strip down the
center or add strips to each side of the main strip. I chose to
add to each side of the main strip. I recommend doing at least 3
vertical strips down the back, this will lessen the curvature affect
on the horizontal side strips. Do not do more than 5 vertical strips
because the overlap due to curvature will become almost 1"
at the ends of the piece. This wastes tape and does not look that
great. Note: I have cut out the 2 holes for the leather visor pad
that goes on the top. |
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Like
I said before, adding the hardware is my favorite part- it is usually
best to wait until the tape job is completed but I got anxious and
put on the leather visor pad. I have also added the first horizontal
strips on each side of the helmet. |
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Here
you can see the mirror images created. Using the "half principal,"
I began the horizontal strip at the center point of the main vertical
strip and ended it at the integrated chin/nape strap slot which
is the approximate center of the front part of the shell (see photo
below). This will basically cut the shell into 4 sections or quarters. |
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This
is the next section to tackle. I decided to half this section again
as seen below. |
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Eyeing
the center of this quarter of the shell, I run a strip from where
the horizontal strip meets the vertical strip and end it at where
the edgeroll makes the corner in the nape area. |
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MIRROR
IMAGES.
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Starting
at the center strip in the left rear quarter, I begin working back
towards the main vertical strips. Every strip will get creased with
the thumbnail prior to trimming carefully with the razor blade. |
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Look
closely at the overlapping and creases. Also not how each strip
is butted up against the previous one at its center point- it is
then worked from the center to each end. At this point I have cut
out the holes for the microphone communications cord & amplifier.
I prefer to do the "X" pattern cut as seen in the large
hole. |
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At this
point I have finished the rear section of the helmet. If you look
closely, you can see that both side look almost identical. |
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Here
I am working forward on the right rear quarter. As I noted in the
HGU-68/P taping article- be sure to be careful with the razor blade
around the leather edgeroll and do not press the tape on to the
leather edgeroll either- it might damage the leather when removed. |
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Here
is a good photo of how the main strip down the sides cuts the helmet
into quarters- here are the front and back quarters of the right
side of the helmet. |
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Looking
here from the right rear of the helmet, I have completed the taping
of the right rear quarter and already added the hardware consisting
of the visor snap & chin/nape securing screw. |
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At this
point, the back half of the helmet is completed and I begin work
on the front. I start by adding a strip next to each leg of the
"V" around the NVG mount. This piece is pressed, creased
and ready to be trimmed for overlap. |
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Here
I have completed each side of the "V" legs around the
NVG mount. This brings the legs to where the edgeroll makes a downward
turn. |
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I add
2 strips to each side of the original "V" legs around
the NVG mount- this brings me to the approximate end of the edgeroll
where it makes a 90 degree turn down. I stop here so I can use 1
long strip that butts up against the edgeroll up and down. Working
from the side strip (under the boom mike round mount shown)- I add
a strip forward. I trim it around the integrated chin/nape assembly
slot. |
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This
is the right side of the helmet as I do the above steps. Adding
the 2 "V" legs up to the edge of the downward turning
edgeroll. |
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Looking
from the top, you can see how we are working our way forward. |
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The
left side of the helmet is completed. Just a few more pieces on
the other side and we are totally done. |
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Now
the right side is completed. All of the holes for the hardware are
located by feeling through the tape- once found, use the razor blade
to make a small hole (make sure the hole is not larger than the
head of the screw so it will be hidden). |
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Upon
completion- run your thumb over each piece to make sure it is firmly
stuck. Used your fingernail to go over every crease and overlap. |
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Visors
are now attached- the helmet is ready to go. The Navy/Marine Corps
require white reflective tape to cover at least 90% of the helmet
shell- the remaining 10% can be used for squadron markings, also
made from reflective tape. The requirement is to aid in rescue of
a crewmember from the sea. |
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Taping
this medium HGU-84/P took me around 2 hours. Do not rush your tape
job, and do not force the tape to go in any direction. Forcing the
tape will cause bubbles to form at the edges. It is bet to let the
tape go in a natural straight direction, following the curvature
of the shell.
For this medium
HGU-84/P, 7.2 yards (or 21.6 feet / or 259.2 inches) of 1 inch
reflective tape was used- this includes "error" length
allowed at the end of each piece.
3M
Reflective tape can be purchased here.
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