| Taping the HGU-84/P helmet can
be very easy. Plan your pattern out ahead of beginning- this will
save a lot of trouble. All you need to tape a helmet is some
reflective tape and a new razor blade. I use my fingernails a lot
to create creases in the tape too. Remove
all hardware from the helmet- in this case I left the NVG/Sight
bracket on the front (as the Navy does) and I also left the
integrated chin/nape assembly on. |
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| This is how I typically begin a
flight helmet tape job. A nice long single strip from the very
front forehead area to the back nape area- dead center in the
shell. If you read the
article on taping the 68/P, you will understand that this
creates "mirror images" on each side. This is very
important. Make sure this first strip is perfectly vertical. Note
the overlap needing to be cut at the nape edgeroll. |
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| The center was easy to find at
the forehead area because of the NVG mount. Prior to taping a
helmet, run your fingers over it feeling for any rough or raised
area- if anything is noticed- remove with fine grit sandpaper. The
length of each strip is figured by first placing it on the helmet
with the backing on. I ALWAYS add some length for error
from the MINIMUM amount needed (perhaps 1 finger width each
side). |
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| Copying what I have seen on
HGU-84/Ps that I have gotten from pilots- I make a "V" pattern
around the NVG mount at the front of the shell. In this photo, I
have trimmed the error length at the edgeroll and have creased the
overlap meeting the main strip, yet to be trimmed. |
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| The mirror leg of the "V" has
been applied at this point. Both pieces are trimmed at the
edgeroll and the desired overlap has been trimmed as well.
Typically I use an overlap of 1/16th to 1/8th inch. It is very
difficult to do a "flush" finish where the tape is butted and
trimmed to fit without overlap- this typically will result in gaps
between the tape and will not look as nice. |
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| There were several options at
this point- I could have continued doing the "V" legs with them
meeting the main strip down the center or add strips to each side
of the main strip. I chose to add to each side of the main strip.
I recommend doing at least 3 vertical strips down the back, this
will lessen the curvature affect on the horizontal side strips. Do
not do more than 5 vertical strips because the overlap due to
curvature will become almost 1" at the ends of the piece. This
wastes tape and does not look that great. Note: I have cut out the
2 holes for the leather visor pad that goes on the top. |
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| Like I said before, adding the
hardware is my favorite part- it is usually best to wait until the
tape job is completed but I got anxious and put on the leather
visor pad. I have also added the first horizontal strips on each
side of the helmet. |
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| Here you can see the mirror
images created. Using the "half principal," I began the horizontal
strip at the center point of the main vertical strip and ended it
at the integrated chin/nape strap slot which is the approximate
center of the front part of the shell (see photo below). This will
basically cut the shell into 4 sections or quarters. |
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| This is the next section to
tackle. I decided to half this section again as seen below. |
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| Eyeing the center of this
quarter of the shell, I run a strip from where the horizontal
strip meets the vertical strip and end it at where the edgeroll
makes the corner in the nape area. |
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|
MIRROR IMAGES. |
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| Starting at the center strip in
the left rear quarter, I begin working back towards the main
vertical strips. Every strip will get creased with the thumbnail
prior to trimming carefully with the razor blade. |
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| Look closely at the overlapping
and creases. Also not how each strip is butted up against the
previous one at its center point- it is then worked from the
center to each end. At this point I have cut out the holes for the
microphone communications cord & amplifier. I prefer to do the "X"
pattern cut as seen in the large hole. |
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| At this point I have finished
the rear section of the helmet. If you look closely, you can see
that both side look almost identical. |
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| Here I am working forward on
the right rear quarter. As I noted in the HGU-68/P taping article-
be sure to be careful with the razor blade around the leather
edgeroll and do not press the tape on to the leather edgeroll
either- it might damage the leather when removed. |
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| Here is a good photo of how the
main strip down the sides cuts the helmet into quarters- here are
the front and back quarters of the right side of the helmet. |
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| Looking here from the right
rear of the helmet, I have completed the taping of the right rear
quarter and already added the hardware consisting of the visor
snap & chin/nape securing screw. |
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| At this point, the back half of
the helmet is completed and I begin work on the front. I start by
adding a strip next to each leg of the "V" around the NVG mount.
This piece is pressed, creased and ready to be trimmed for
overlap. |
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| Here I have completed each side
of the "V" legs around the NVG mount. This brings the legs to
where the edgeroll makes a downward turn. |
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| I add 2 strips to each side of
the original "V" legs around the NVG mount- this brings me to the
approximate end of the edgeroll where it makes a 90 degree turn
down. I stop here so I can use 1 long strip that butts up against
the edgeroll up and down. Working from the side strip (under the
boom mike round mount shown)- I add a strip forward. I trim it
around the integrated chin/nape assembly slot. |
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| This is the right side of the
helmet as I do the above steps. Adding the 2 "V" legs up to the
edge of the downward turning edgeroll. |
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| Looking from the top, you can
see how we are working our way forward. |
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| The left side of the helmet is
completed. Just a few more pieces on the other side and we are
totally done. |
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| Now the right side is
completed. All of the holes for the hardware are located by
feeling through the tape- once found, use the razor blade to make
a small hole (make sure the hole is not larger than the head of
the screw so it will be hidden). |
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| Upon completion- run your thumb
over each piece to make sure it is firmly stuck. Used your
fingernail to go over every crease and overlap. |
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| Visors are now attached- the
helmet is ready to go. The Navy/Marine Corps require white
reflective tape to cover at least 90% of the helmet shell- the
remaining 10% can be used for squadron markings, also made from
reflective tape. The requirement is to aid in rescue of a
crewmember from the sea. |
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| Taping this medium HGU-84/P
took me around 2 hours. Do not rush your tape job, and do not
force the tape to go in any direction. Forcing the tape will cause
bubbles to form at the edges. It is bet to let the tape go in a
natural straight direction, following the curvature of the shell.
For this medium HGU-84/P, 7.2 yards (or 21.6
feet / or 259.2 inches) of 1 inch reflective tape was used- this
includes "error" length allowed at the end of each piece. |
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