| Taping a flight helmet can be very easy as long
as you take your time and plan your taping pattern ahead of
actually doing it. After seeing hundreds of Naval flight helmets
and many different taping patterns, there seems to be no set
method of taping, but more of a personal choice. Actual Naval
taped helmets are done by Life Support personnel, different
squadrons will have different methods. On this HGU-68/P, it is
patterned after a "X" pattern seen on an adversary (Top Gun)
pilot's helmet. |
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| As seen above in the first photo, I have picked
2 spots on one side of the helmet that have identical locations on
the other side. In this case, I chose in the front where the top
of the leather "elephant ear" meets the edgeroll across the
forehead. At the rear, the corners of the edgeroll where the nape
corners (later photos will show area). Picking these spots gives
us a centered "X" in the back of the shell. Please note that all
hardware was removed from the helmet. In order to have a neat job,
this must be done, then reinstalled later. |
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| When working with the reflective tape, do not
"force" it too much. It may stick for the time being, but if made
to go in an unnatural direction it will eventually bubble. Do not
be afraid to pull the tape back up in order to get a nicer line.
It will be helpful not to press the tape down firmly until you get
it in the correct location that you are happy with. In this photo,
I have started from the forehead area and began working back to
the "X". |
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| At this point I have laid down 7 strips. The 2
main "X" strips, and these 5 to fill in between the upper arms of
the X. Note on the front strip's roundness- this is from the
curvature of the shell meeting the leather edgeroll. Taping
a helmet is all about "centers" or "halves." For these
cross strips, I found the center and butted a strip against the
previous one. Then working my thumb from the center to each side,
pressing firmly, you will get an identical overlap due to the
shell curvature. |
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| Here, the upper part of the X is filled in with
7 cross strips. Notice how even the overlap is on each of the
cross strips. The length of each strip is figured by first placing
it on the helmet with the backing on. I ALWAYS add some
length for error from the MINIMUM amount needed (perhaps 1
finger width each side). I do around 1/16th to 1/8th inch overlap
at the ends of each strip. It will be trimmed carefully with a
razor blade (photo below). |
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| After finishing the top of the X pattern, we
start on the lower part of the arms. Again, stressing the idea of
halves and making mirror images. The bottom part is done in the
same order as the top was. Starting at the widest point and work
your way up. Be VERY careful when using a razor blade near the
edgeroll. It is very helpful to use a fingernail to press the tape
as close to the edge as possible. Use minimal pressure so you do
not cut the leather or threading that secures it. |
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| In this photo, the overlap on each strip is
very evident. Notice how each piece is butted against each other
in the center, then allowed to follow the curvature and overlap
the previous piece. I constantly use my thumb nail to create a
deep crease in the tape where it overlaps. Only do this after you
are happy with the location of the tape. |
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| On the next piece in this photo, I am shown
working my thumb from the center out to each side. As you can tell
from the previous photos, I trim each piece as I go. Always use
caution when cutting tape on tape, as must be done at the ends of
the strips where they meet the legs of the X. You only want to cut
the overlapping piece- not the underlying piece. |
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| Here I am shown gingerly trimming a cross strip
to overlap the X leg around 1/16 of an inch. I do not measure the
overlap. Basically I just eye it and try to keep it uniform. |
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| The upper and lower sections of the X are
completed. This was my first attempt at doing the X pattern and I
was quite happy with the results at this point. Now was the
decision on how to do the left & right sections. I decided to do a
different pattern on the sides, since the elephant ears would be
in the way of a simple cross strip pattern. |
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| In this photo, the forehead of the helmet is to
the right, the nape area is to the left. I have already added 2
long strips along the side of the lower leg of the X. Again,
starting at the center of the lower right leg of the X, I
work the tape to the ends, allowing it to follow the curvature. |
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| After adding 3 strips, I come to the first
"obstruction," the leather elephant ear. Although obstructions
like this are a hassle to work around, upon completion they make
the tape job look great because they appear to have been laid down
ON the tape (instead of the tape being around it). |
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| I used 1 long strip here because of that 1/8th
inch gap seen between the previous strip and the corner of the
elephant ear. After this, you can use smaller pieces for the top
and bottom areas around the elephant ear. |
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| I went ahead and did the top area around the
elephant ear because it looked easier. Just simply size the tape
(leave room for error!), peel backing and lay tape down, when
happy with position press firmly, create creases with thumbnail.
Be very careful NOT to press tape onto leather elephant ear or
edgeroll- when removed it may damage leather. Just crease with
fingernail along the edge and you should be OK. |
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| At this point I have started adding the strips
to the lower section around the elephant ear. Working my way
forward from the back as I did at the top of the elephant ear.
Doing this, it should appear that a long single strip is running
beneath the leather elephant ear. |
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| Here is a great example of the amount of
overlap I allow for a piece of tape. As the length of the strip of
tape gets larger, so should your "error" length. You can also see
how I have creased the tape near the elephant ear and edgeroll
prior to trimming. Do not worry about taping over holes for
bayonet receivers, nape strap, etc- they will be easy to find by
feeling through the tape. |
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| After laying the piece in the above photo, I
realized the one inch tape was not going to be wide enough to fill
the last area in. Thinking ahead that I had to reinstall the
bayonet receivers, I made it so the area not covered with tape
would be under them. That saved from having a really small piece
of tape that might peel off (not to mention that it wouldn't look
very good). I have also trimmed around the integrated chin/nape
strap slot and other holes around the shell. |
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| This is my favorite part of taping a helmet-
adding the hardware back on and seeing excellent results. Notice
how the bayonet receiver covers the gap in the tape shown in the
above photo. |
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| Mirror image- this is the other side of
the helmet as I come to the elephant ear. The single long strip
has been laid down and creased at the elephant ear & the edgeroll
and is ready for trimming. Although hard to tell in the photo, I
have taken great care in not pressing the tape to the leather
elephant ear. |
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| The bottom edge already cut with the razor
blade, I crease the top edge with my thumbnail. |
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| Carefully cutting along the edge of the
elephant ear and removing the section of waste tape slowly so as
not to damage the leather- nice neat result. Now just trim the
waste tape at the edgeroll. |
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| The top section above the elephant ear goes
quickly and the helmet is finished. I will run my thumb over each
piece again to make sure it is firmly in place. I will also go
over each crease again to make sure it is deep and crisp. |
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| Here all of the hardware is going back on. The
general location of the holes should be known- knowing the general
location feel for the edge of the hole. I prefer to make an X in
the hole rather than cutting a circle out- the X allows the screw
to go through but eliminates the possibility of cutting too much
tape out. |
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| A view of the back of the shell. Do not worry
if you can not get every piece to be a mirror image of the other
side. That would be very difficult and you would waste a lot of
tape trying over and over. For this
large HGU-68/P, 6.8 yards (or 20.4 feet / or 244.8 inches) of 1
inch reflective tape was used- this includes "error" length
allowed at the end of each piece. |
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